Build Tips

• There is no need to exceed a maximum tension of 120 kgf. While our rims can withstand higher tensions, remember high spoke tension does not make a wheel stiffer but it does add unnecessary stress to your spokes and nipples and can cause premature failure of these components.
• This spoke calculator has been optimized for traditional nipples such that when at full tension the end of the spoke is flush with the slot in the nipple. If using a hex hed nipple you can round up spoke lengths because there are more internal threads, and they extend further inside the rim. Note that most wheels we build use hex/squorx nipples so take this into account if determining the correct length for a replacement spoke. A link to our build sheets is provided above.
• Don't forget about the asymmetrical offset and angled spoke holes. Make sure you have the hubs oriented correctly as you begin lacing the wheels and that the first spoke exits the rim at the correct angle. There is a sticker on each wheel to indicate the correct hub/spoke orientation. Remember that the calculator above compensates for the rim offset, so there is no need for you to worry about that.
• Remember to lube the nipple/rim interface. We recommend using a very small amount of thin lubricant (Pro-gold, tri-flow, etc.) between the nipple and the carbon rim to help easily get the spokes up to tension. It is also ok to use a nipple washer (but not required).
• Broken spokes are most often caused by low tension and a carbon rim can be hard on low-tension spokes. It takes a skilled wheel builder to make a true wheel at uniform tension. Use a tensionometer and if you don't know what you're doing please seek out a qualified builder!
• Check spoke tension after the first few rides. Spokes/nipples/hubs all "bed-in" in one way or another and it's normal to see a slight loss of tension after a few days. Remember, low tension spokes are the enemy!